8.Expedition of Saponification

a)      Addition of Pure Alcohol will speed up the Saponification process.  As Pure Alcohol exists in all Artificial Scents, hence by using one with high concentration of Pure Alcohol (e.g. any Rose essence), will introduce “spontaneous” Saponification.  This, however, also means that, if any Artificial Scent with a high concentration of Pure Alcohol is used in the recipe, moulding needs to be worked quickly as soon as it is added.

b)      On the other hand, if the soap mixture is not thickening as expected during the whisking step, adding a few CC of Artificial Scent containing high concentration of Pure Alcohol will solve the problem.

c)      Adding Powder[1] of any sort to the Soap Mixture also helps to harden the end product.  This is another way (other than adding Artificial Scent) to expedite Saponification.

 

9.SuperFatting

SuperFatting is when the amount of Oil exceeds the amount of Lye added.  Theoretically, the higher the amount of oil in the soap the better it is for the skin (and vice versa for the Lye), however, the more “Oil over Lye” the faster the deterioration, hence SuperFatted Soaps are not made commercially.  

 

The lower the Oil’s INS Value (less than 50) the more suitable it is for SuperFatting.  Expensive Oils, in general, are also suitable for SuperFatting.  Total SF Percentage should stay between 4% and 30%.  Using Jojoba Oil as an example, its INS Value is extremely low, hence is perfect for SuperFatting.

 

Again, to minimize the destructibility of the hydroxide, SuperFatting Oil is added AFTER the addition of the Lye Solution, approximately half-way through the whisking process.

 

         10.Lye Reduction

Another option to improve the quality of the soap (by tipping the balance of Oil over Lye) is to reduce the correct amount of hydroxide slightly (by between 2% to 5%).  If Amount of Lye is reduced by 5%, then the Lye % (鹼化率) is reduced from 100% to 95%.

Calculation is as follows:

Assuming original Amount of Lye is 75gm.

Reduce Lye Amount by 5% (3.75gm).

Resulting Lye Amount = 75 – 3.75 = 71.25 = 71gm

 

N.B. Water Quantity should be calculated with the Resulting Lye Amount.

 

Assuming Water Multiple is 2, Amount of Water is (2 X 71 = 142gm). 

 



[1] Refer to “Clay Mask” ingredients for the property of different powders.

 

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