4.Cold Process Saponification (冷法皂化)

[Saponification – the process that changes liquid oil to solid soap.]

 

Soap can be made by adding NaOH (氫氧化鈉) for Solid Soap or KOH (氫氧化鉀) for Liquid Soap to the selected Oils.  Amount of Hydroxide is calculated using the Hydroxide Values given for the various oils multiplied by the weight of the Oil calculated to one decimal point.  Truncate the final total if less than .4 and round up if greater than or equal to .4.

 

The Hydroxide needs to be diluted in water to form the Lye Solution (鹼水) before adding to the Oil.  Generally, the amount of water is approximately 2.5 times (Water Multiple) of the amount of Hydroxide.  The Water Multiple should be adjusted[1] depending on the “Hardness” of the soap, which is determined by the INS Value.  More water should be added for “harder” soap (or else the soap will crack when cut), hence a higher Water Multiple should be used, and less should be used for “softer” soap (otherwise the soap will be too soft to cut).  Once the Water Multiple is determined, multiply the weight of the total Hydroxide required by the Water Multiple to obtain the correct amount of water required.

 

INS Value (皂化值) of each Oil provides an indicator on the Oil’s “hardness”.  The INS Value of the soap is the total of each Oil’s INS Value multiplied by that Oil%.  Again, truncate the final total if less than .4 and round up if greater than or equal to .3.  The acceptable INS Value for Skin Soap is between 130 and 160.  Anything less than 130 is considered too soft and is only suitable for Extremely Dry Skin.  Similarly, anything greater than 160 is too hard and should only be used for Extremely Oily Skin.

 

Good quality oil, if used, should be added after the addition of the Lye Solution and at least half-way through the whisking process, this can minimize the destructibility of the hydroxide to the nutrition of the good oil/s. 

 

Essential/Aromatic Oil/Natural Extracts are added for medicinal reason while Artificial Scent/Essence is added for fragrance.  This is calculated as a percentage of the Total Oil Weight.  Amount of Essential Oils should always be greater than or equal to Artificial Scent/Essence.  Total of both should not be higher than 5% of the total Oil weight.

 

To differentiate between Essential Oil and Artificial Scent

1.      Use a piece of White Paper. 

2.      Drop a few drops of the ingredient onto the paper.

3.      The “Liquid” will rest on a wet stain.

4.      The “Liquid” will disappear shortly and leaving only the wet stain if the ingredient is Essential Oil.

5.      If the ingredient is Artificial Scent, the “Liquid” will remain on the paper for a long time (sometimes even overnight).

[1] Refer to later section on “Water Multiple” for more details.

 
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