我跟我女朋友的價值觀還蠻接近的~儘管年齡上差了7歲~也就是說~她上了國小一年級~我才剛出生而已~但看事情的角度確很一致~其中有個共同點~就是~我們還蠻喜歡"撿破爛的"~我們逛遍北台灣的二手市集~從具有人文氣息的天母市集~到福和橋下凌晨4點才開市的怪怪市集(猛一看還真以為還到柬埔寨^^")~在東京,自由之丘的假日市集~往巴黎的聖圖安跳蚤市場~都有我們的足跡~且樂此不疲~在尋寶的過程中~總是看的多~買的少~純粹在享受過去的我還不及參與我們終於見面了的此種莫名的快感幻想中~當然~我女朋友病的沒有我重.....
2012年~5月31日星期四晚上的飛機往德國去~對~後天~我們人不在國內~協會有小幫手會顧店~所以~同學們還是可以來~那如果有問題要找我的話~請在留言版留話~我會在8900公里外回信的......
在路上走著~我很容易察覺~這是真的古蹟還是偽古蹟~我對這兩種的定義很簡單~就是原本的古蹟經過一點點裝修後的樣子~不能太多喔~太多會有點走味(畢竟要保持原本的面貌有點難)~跟仿照舊式風格的建物~直接給它作成一模一樣~這兩者我可親易辦出~有點像全手工作的香皂跟電動打出來的偽手工皂~我可以輕易判斷出~但嚴格說來~這種專長好像對社會沒什麼貢獻.....
遇到難度高的古蹟群(例:迪化街)~要能精準的判斷~就有點辛苦了~我必須要靠雙手去摸~感覺建材本身是否超過80年以上.....難度如果更高的話(例:所謂的1.2級國定古蹟)~我必須整個臉貼上去感受歷史的溫度~方可察覺~目前辨識成功率可達100%(我回家會作功課確認是否誤判)~這有點像~打香皂時~剛開始用電動攪拌器將轉速降低去摹擬雙手打出來的感覺~皂化將盡再用打蛋器實際打兩下~這樣的偽手工皂光用肉眼判斷很難~因為表面的紋路很細~甚至比嬰兒的肌膚還要細~所以~有必要的話~要切開來觀察~對著光線去看內部是否會反光~如果會的話~那就是偽手工皂的第一證明~最後~還要實際是洗一次~觀察泡沫是否過大~然後~再下結論~目前為止成功率還是可達100%~但仍然對於油電雙漲沒有任何抑制的作用.....
前幾天去逛士林夜市~把機車停在士林分局旁~往對面一看~熊熊出現一棟八卦型的紅色建築物~心想~這不是我老爸小時候常說可鎮煞的日式建築物嗎??(例:西門紅樓就是典型的八卦狀)此種建築物常出現於龍蛇混雜或人聲頂沸的環境中~有鎮壓壞的氣體或稱惡鬼之功能~當然~以上的說法都來自我老爸~可能有50%是虎爛的......

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ISOAP RECIPES


13.To make Domestic Soap using Recycle Oil


a)1000cc Recycle Oil


390cc Water


145gm NaOH

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12.Colour Layering

Colouring Agent should be added AFTER the No Separation stage.  All Essential Oil/s and SuperFatting Oil/s should be added BEFORE adding the Colouring Agent.  Once the Soap Mixture is ready, split equally into 3 separate Measuring Jugs.  Add Colouring Agent to each Jug to achieve the desired shade and line them in the layering order.  Choose an Artificial Scent that will expedite the Saponification process and add it to the Colour-ready Soap Mixture and mould quickly.  After the First Layer, pour the subsequent layers from the side of the Measuring Jug and over the flat surface of the scraper to avoid messing up the surface of each layer.


It is also possible to have a SuperFatting Oil that also works as a Colouring Agent (refer to三色香橙精油皂recipe).


Formula for Colour Layering Soap should include at least 10% of Castor Oil to ensure each layer will “stick” to each other.  Using the Lavender Soap (薰衣草精油香皂) as an example, change the formula as follows:


Original Recipe

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Since both SuperFatting and Lye Reduction end up with a higher Oil proportion than Lye, technically, the final product should be the same, however, due to the fact that the addition of oil in SuperFatting is AFTER the addition of the Lye Solution, hence the nutrients of the SF Oil is not destroyed by the Lye as much as in Lye Reduction.


11.Water Multiple


The Standard Water Multiple is 2.5, but this is affected by a number of conditions:


a)The INS Value of the Soap – the higher the INS Value, the higher the Water Multiple.


b)Temperature – the higher the Temperature, the higher the Water Multiple.

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    8.Expedition of Saponification

a)Addition of Pure Alcohol will speed up the Saponification process.  As Pure Alcohol exists in all Artificial Scents, hence by using one with high concentration of Pure Alcohol (e.g. any Rose essence), will introduce “spontaneous” Saponification.  This, however, also means that, if any Artificial Scent with a high concentration of Pure Alcohol is used in the recipe, moulding needs to be worked quickly as soon as it is added.


b)On the other hand, if the soap mixture is not thickening as expected during the whisking step, adding a few CC of Artificial Scent containing high concentration of Pure Alcohol will solve the problem.


c)Adding Powder[1] of any sort to the Soap Mixture also helps to harden the end product.  This is another way (other than adding Artificial Scent) to expedite Saponification.


9.SuperFatting

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5.Oil Separation (油水分離)


Once the Lye is added to the Oil Mixture, continuous whisking is required until there is “No Separation” between water and oil.  The higher the temperature the less whisking is required to achieve this, however, the higher temperature will result in greater loss of the nutritious values in the oils.


If the oil colour is DARK (colour change will occur if pre-soaked with certain plants, e.g. Comfrey, refer to Lavender Soap recipe), it is difficult to tell whether the separation has disappeared.  This needs to be checked by looking at the surface of the Oil.  There will be a thin layer of oil that floats on the Soap Mixture surface initially (when the Lye Solution is added), it will appear in the shape of a new moon while whisking.  The Soap Mixture is ready when the new moon shape disappears. 


6.SoapDeterioration

Major reasons of Deterioration are:

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4.Cold Process Saponification (冷法皂化)


[Saponification – the process that changes liquid oil to solid soap.]


Soap can be made by adding NaOH (氫氧化鈉) for Solid Soap or KOH (氫氧化鉀) for Liquid Soap to the selected Oils.  Amount of Hydroxide is calculated using the Hydroxide Values given for the various oils multiplied by the weight of the Oil calculated to one decimal point.  Truncate the final total if less than .4 and round up if greater than or equal to .4.


The Hydroxide needs to be diluted in water to form the Lye Solution (鹼水) before adding to the Oil.  Generally, the amount of water is approximately 2.5 times (Water Multiple) of the amount of Hydroxide.  The Water Multiple should be adjusted[1] depending on the “Hardness” of the soap, which is determined by the INS Value.  More water should be added for “harder” soap (or else the soap will crack when cut), hence a higher Water Multiple should be used, and less should be used for “softer” soap (otherwise the soap will be too soft to cut).  Once the Water Multiple is determined, multiply the weight of the total Hydroxide required by the Water Multiple to obtain the correct amount of water required.


INS Value (皂化值) of each Oil provides an indicator on the Oil’s “hardness”.  The INS Value of the soap is the total of each Oil’s INS Value multiplied by that Oil%.  Again, truncate the final total if less than .4 and round up if greater than or equal to .3.  The acceptable INS Value for Skin Soap is between 130 and 160.  Anything less than 130 is considered too soft and is only suitable for Extremely Dry Skin.  Similarly, anything greater than 160 is too hard and should only be used for Extremely Oily Skin.

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I.BASIC NOTES


1.Types of Oil


a)Soft Oil (軟油, 油) – regardless of temperature, always in liquid form.


b)Hard Oil (硬油, 脂, 蠟) – regardless of temperature, always in solid form.


c)Exception – Coconut Oil and Palm Oil.  These two are in liquid form during summer and solidifies during winter (when temperature is below 20℃).

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I.BASIC NOTES. 3

1.Types of Oil3


2.The 3 Major Oils used in Soap making. 3


3.Typical Hard/Soft Oil Combination for different Skin Types:3


4.Cold Process Saponification (冷法皂化)4

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~文字待補~

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以前在為自己的手工皂拍照時~基本上~有幾個原則~
1.沒有太陽~我就不拍~因為呈現不出該有的明暗與氣氛~
2.心情不好~我就不拍~因為~我會沒耐性~多照幾個漂亮的角度~
3.我拍照不喜歡有人跟~因為~會讓我分心~又要聊天~又要顧時間~這實在很煩....所以~至今只有我女友看過
那手工皂被別人拍~我倒是輕鬆很多~完全沒壓力~只要在旁邊抽煙摸助教的小手就好了~因為美與不美已經不關我的事了~重點在於報紙或雜誌怎麼宣傳就好了~沒錯的話~通常都馬是小小的一格~比較大格的~都是操作手工皂的步驟圖~又加上~並不會因為我上了水果日報或其他的雜誌~就讓我走在路上被粉絲要求簽名或者是讓我的雜葉商行生意興隆~這些都不會發生的~這是我上過幾次電視錄影的心得.....也驗證了~我是個十足現實的生意人....

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皂的初體驗-櫻花香氛家事皂
愛護環境&保護家人健康就一起來喇皂!
用天然的素材製作的冷製皂不僅環保讓環境零污染
還可以減少化學藥劑對肌膚的負擔和傷害。
 7/18(日)下午2:00-4:30

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